South Funen Archipelago August 2012 by Felix Rathgens


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Date: 25.08-01.09.2012.
Location: South Funen Archipelago
Ship: Ava I (Caprice 19)
Crew: My girlfriend (Sophia) and me (Felix)
Nautical miles: ~120

 General Chart of the  Area



Day 1: Kiel-Maarstal-38nm

Cast off 0830.
Sophia worked the through the night to finish some university stuff, as soon as she entered the ship she went down and began sleeping. Breakfast for me while going out of the Schwentine under engine. Setting sails, main and jib1. Weak winds from the south, around 2 bft. Direction abaft, strength, capable of development. The inner part of the Kieler Fjord has alot wind cover, making 5 nautical miles in 3 hours can be frustrating. Fortunately the weather is fine. After the narrowest part at the lighthouse of Friedrichsort the outer Fjord is reached. Time 1130. The wind freshes slightly up to 3 bft, still south. 1300: leaving the lighthouse of Bülk on the portside, 10 nautical miles sailed, open sea ahead. 1400: lighthouse Kiel on starboard, wind freshing up 4-5bft, south, fast sailing downwind. The waves come from behind and side, it is a strange wave pattern; around 1-1.5m. But higher waves out of nowhere sometimes, which maybe has something to do with the level of the seafloor. The stern waves take their toll. Sophia is seasick. Little sleep, no breakfast and sleeping under deck in this conditions is not the best to do for someone that is not used to sail. Unfortunately for me. I have to keep on sitting at the tiller, and get more and more tired. Falling into microsleep at the tiller is not that much fun...God at that point I really would have done anything for an automatic-tillerpilot. Looking at the compass to hold the course is the only thing to do, nothing more to see than water, 360 degrees.
Since going downwind I sailed butterfly, having the jib set with the hitcher. At that point my construction had little failures, the hitcher sometimes fell out of its construction and I had to jump to prevent it from falling in the water. Re-setting it when the boat is rolling is a dumb idea, so at one point I fell and broke the cabin door. (Dont worry; I often sail alone and always! Latch myself via live-vest and short belt to the boat). I brought about Ava and fixed the door with glue and tape.
The rest of the open sea passage went calm, the wind went down to 3 bft, rain showers, still quit high waves.

1900: I can see the skyline( ok, just the industry, wind mills) of Maarstal. The wind goes back up to 4bft. I often looked at the charts of Maarstal and knew about the very small marked channel, but had no problems to find it. At the first mark I took down the main sail to reduce speed, and sailed through the channel. Jib down at port entrance, fender out and in the port looking for a moorage.
But since Maarstal is a favored marina it is respectively big and has many sites, besides it is late in the season, no problem to find a free spot. A danish crew saw me comming in single handed and helped me berthing. Time 1930.
As soon as Sophia had find her feet she was better. Dinnertime!( Ravioli)
Tomorrow will be a harbour day to raise Sophias mood, relax and do some sightseeing.
(search in Google-Earth for: Marstal)

Harbour fee + power fee: 17euro


Day 3: Maarstal-Birkholm-12nm

We had a relaxing day yesterday, unfortunaltly alot rain and very strong winds (7-8bft).
Todays distance is only 4 nautical miles, too little in my opinion since I want to sail. I set the plan to circumnavigate the island Stynø before going to Birkholm. A mistake I should regret later on. Cast off at 1300, 4 bft, direction south-west. Set sails directly after the harbor and went downwind direction Stynø. Beating about behind Stynø the wind dropped to 2 bft. Beating about in low winds is certainly not the best to do with a Caprice... On the other hand it was fantastic; the sky was blue, the sun shining, the water cristal clear and you could watch the ground at a depth of 2m slowly drifting by with all its plants and sandspots! Awesome! But Sophia is urging to hurry, 6 nm more at a speed of roughly 1 knot, too long for her. So we took down the sails and went to Birkholm under engine, This is certainly an island worth a visite; a small harbor(2m), a population of only 3, abit tweedy but very romantic side. In this harbor we met another young couple that was crusing with their motorboat. Very friendly people that should accompany us for the rest of the cruise.
Dinnertime! ( Noodles with tomato sauce)



Day 4: Birkholm–Drejø Gammle Havn-9nm

Cast off at 1230, South 4bft. Downwin sailing with main and jib1 hitched. Doing the 9 miles in a decent time of 2 hours 30 minutes, with only 2 gybes needed. Going linear was impossible since many shallows and big rocks. In this context, the port entry is worth mentioned. It is a very narow and shallow channel of around 800m, water depth starboard and backboard between 0.3-1m.
This is really one kind of a harbor; I have never in my life seen a port so comfy, in good shape and hospitable. Harbor-fee is paid on mutual trust, a cozy hut to sit, cook, recharge. With freezer and deepfreezer for sailors, and a lokal-freezer full of beer, for a small price on mutual trust.
Later on the other couple came, and by dusk a second couple we should sail together for the rest of the time. We stayed two nights, had a really good time with fantastic food and barbecue, great weather and nice people.
(search in Google-Earth for: Drejø. Cant miss it and the small harbor in the north and nice pics )

Harbor fee: 75DKK

More mentionable: I knew it since the beginning of the season, and I drove me really crazy.
The power cable in the mast! Someone had missed to isolate it, and by the smalles movement or wave it was making a noise like a bell! (Horrible if you are inside!!) In addition to my nerves, it also gnawed my conscience towards all the other yachts, specially if it was windy.
Since we were three man, it really pi.... me off and we had no wind, I asked for a helping hand and we took the mast down and stripped the cable out. Very good sleeping for the rest of the journey!!

(search in Google-Earth for: Drejø. Cant miss it and the small harbor in the north and nice pics )


Day 6: Drejø Gammle Havn-Avernakø ( anchoring south side)-8nm

Cast off 1400, west 1-2bft.Main and jib1. Relaxed cast off with the destination Mommark at east side of the island Aals. Very light winds, had to use the engine as support (nearly the whole time).
We were heading straight towards Avernakø, to set new course as we would have it abeam to head to Mommark. But the wind died. Since we knew the wind was supposed to come from north-west we anchored in a small bight in the south-east of Avernakø. Fantastic spot with a waterdepth of more than 2 m just 25m away from the beach. Cristal clear water, you could see the ground in more than 5m!
The other two couples came and anchored close by. I went swimming and checked all anchors. By dusk we all went via Dinghy to the motor-yacht. Cooked (pancakes?) and partied. You really got to love the space on those ships ( not their need for 20l/h+ )
(search in Google-Earth for:Avernakø

Harbor fee: Whats a harbor fee?

More mentionable: We saw a school of common porpoise (Phocoena phocoena ), south see feeling, yeah! Unfortunaltely they were too fast and we had no wind to sail next to them. The engine was no option for me in this situation.



Day 7: Avernakø-Kappeln-28nm

Cast off 1230, north-west 4-5bft, wave height: 1-3m. Main and jib1.
Relaxed anchor up at 1230, great weather with blue sky and a nice, but cold wind from the north west. ( comination results in great sunburns....). First wind abeam up to the head of Ærø, from there downwind in a real rush to Schleimünde. High but long waves up to 3m in the Lillebælt, resulting in one of the best sailing days of the season and a top-speed of 6.7knts in surf!!
1800 entering the Schlei through Schleimünde Light-house. (So far 25nm in 5h,30mins=~4.5knts/h)
The last three miles against wind and tide to Kappeln. Shower, then dinner with my father and my stepmother down at the harbor.

Harbor fee: 12euros



Day 8: Kappeln-Kiel-27nm

Cast off at 1230, instead of planned 1030. (Harbor masters can be so friendly and have alot to tell).
North-west 3,south-west 3-5. Main and jib1.
1300 lighthouse Schleimünde abeam. Instead of going around the restricted military area between it and land, I chose to go around outside to make sure to catch some wind. At first 4-5bft from north-west, began the wind to alternate between 3-4, in gusts 5 from south-west.
All in all nothing speciall. A bit boring to sit at the tiller the whole time over such a long time. Arrived in home habor 1900. Made a clean sweep and went off home.

Conclusion: Great weather, a great small yacht, a great estuary worth many more visits! A great cruise!



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